Jeans - what to wear instead of skinny

Navigating the new jean shapes
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As a personal stylist, the one item most sought after by my clients is a good pair of jeans. The message coming through is that skinnies are over, so if you want to try something different, where do you start?

There are lots of options – but it’s about knowing the new styles, working out what will work for your shape and proportions, and how to wear them to get the look right.

Here’s a rundown of the popular styles right now, and which ones will work for you.

1. THE BOYFRIEND
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The vibe is relaxed and slouchy, adding a bit of volume and curve to the lower body. The denim has a worn in, faded look and are designed to be rolled up at the ankle. The rise (how far they reach up to the waist) is usually low to mid. This is a good style if you have wider shoulders than hips as will balance your figure. If you have a straight up and down shape without a defined waist or are tall, they are really flattering as they create shape and contours around the hips and thighs. If you are curvy, look for a pair with a higher waist for bum lift and coverage, and more rigid denim that won’t give and stretch too much.

Wear with a tucked-in top, all the way round or just at the front (the French tuck), or a waist length top to highlight the waist, not cover it. It’s best to wear footwear that comes no higher than the ankle, stick with flats, sandals, heels or low boots that leave some skin showing at the ankle for a casual look. Wear strappy or slingback heels for an ever-stylish Carrie Bradshaw look!

2. THE STRAIGHT
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This is John Lewis’ best selling style. They are slim through the leg, wider at the ankle than skinnies for a more relaxed look. They are great if you are petite as they elongate the legs, and will minimise a big bottom and flatter an apple or hourglass’s curves and lengthen the body. They are better worn slightly cropped rather than resting on the top of the foot, which can look frumpy. Look for a well fitting waist with no gapping, that are slim through the hips to create a streamlined shape.

They can make a rectangle figure look even straighter, so best worn with a shorter or tucked in top so you see your waist. They look really good with a fitted top or a crisp shirt and a blazer worn open. I terms of footwear, anyhting goes - trainers, ankle boots, loafers or slim heels (avoid block heels which can make the legs look chunky).

3. THE WIDE LEG
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They make the waist look smaller, the legs look longer and show off curves. What’s not too love? For die hard skinny jean fans, the wide legs might be the biggest challenge! There are two length options, either full length (resting on the top of your shoe), or a cropped, above ankle length. The length needs to be one or other, anywhere in between is no mans land. The cropped length is great for tall figures as they can make you look shorter. If you have a more petite figure, choose full length to help extend the line of your body and make your legs look really long. Whichever length you go for, they need to be a good fit on the waist to so they sit at the narrowest part.

This is a statement style, so keep the rest of the outfit quite simple and let the jeans speak for themselves. For a classic layered daytime look, pair your wide leg crops with simple sweaters and over coats. Or add a loose trench with something more form-fitting underneath. For a dressed-up look, pair your wide-leg jeans with a more feminine top tucked in, plus a heeled sandal or pointed toe boot. Keep accessories to a minimum: a clutch and a piece of statement jewellery, will take it up a notch.

4. THE TAPERED/GIRLFRIEND
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This is a streamlined, relaxed style with a high waist. The legs shape is slimmer, tapered and often cropped to the ankle. They’re a bit like a baggy skinny jean! Another name for the them is a ‘Slim Boyfriend’. Perfect for petite, pear and apple shapes and anyone who feels swamped by the boyfriend style. They have a more feminine shape that skims really well over curves. A really versatile style to have in your jeans line-up.

Pair with loose blouses and tops and try a French tuck to create a bit of volume to contrast with the slim jeans. In Winter, try a chunky knit jumper or cardigan for a slouchy, casual look. To dress them up, add feminine surprise element like a pair of stilettos, a floral or sparkly top, or pearls. The tapered leg allows you to wear them with almost any style of footwear, everything from heels to flats to trainers. If you are petite, roll the hems up and wear with heels for a long legged effect.

5. THE FLARE/BOOTCUT
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Fitted through the hips and thighs, flaring out from the knee towards the hem. A flare is wider through to the hem than a bootcut. They look really good on most women, especially curvy pear and hourglass shapes. Petite tip - get the leg length absolutely right when you’re wearing heels, the hem needs to graze the floor. They will lengthen your legs by not cutting you off at the ankle, in the way skinny jeans do. The modern flare or bootcut creates a graceful, elegant curved silhouette and will make you feel amazing!

Getting the hem line and shoe type right is important with flares, as they can make or break the look. You’ll probably need two pairs, a slightly shorter length for wearing with chunky trainers or boots, and longer ones to wear with heels. When you’re wearing heels, the jeans need to be long enough to almost cover your foot and not ‘crop’ your legs. Platforms, wedges, almond toe boots and chunky flats are all great with flares. Just avoid round toes as they have a leg shortening effect.

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Which brands would I recommend? For good value, M&S (which is the biggest denim retailer on the high street), for the huge range in styles, leg lengths and washes. Uniqlo for good quality, well styled cuts. At a higher price point, Raey offer well fitting, relaxed and edgy styles in wide size range.

To conclude, there is a perfect style for everyone. To find it, identify the shape that is likely to work for you and try as many versions of them as you can, as the fit can vary so much between brands. When you find the right ones, consider buying two pairs to avoid the heartbreak of not being able to replace them when the time comes!

If you’d like help to finding probably the most important piece in wardrobe, get in touch. I’d love to help.